Maybe others that have trouble is due to just a little too much fiddling . Overture PLA and PETG come in 6-paks that only cost $14 CDN or roughly $12 per spool. Trayal, here is the parts list and cost breakdown for the mag ball arms I built. I made sure these sat right against the top of the frame to keep them all consistent. So, actually trying to figure a way to bring Merlin to that system, replace the extruder ( this Titan wannabe is crappy constructed ), put a 4mm glas printbed and a GFK plate to it, losing 5mm in height. We tried the WamBam beds on it and liked the concept, but we still slightly prefer glass beds - they work for us and cost a bit less. That ornament is printed in vase mode: 1 perimeter, no support, no infill. I switch it on when the print is done and that really helped with UltraBase. This leaves you with a frame and some electronics. Really seems like a Quality Control issue to look out for, as I've also seen nothing but good reviews on print quality (after adding TL-Smoothers and changing the fan duct for a lower aiming one). and that things might be slow with Customs (!!!). In my opinion, Anycubic will be as visible in the 3D printer market in 5 years as Amish carpenters are in superluminal space flight. I preheat the bed from the printer and check with a Fluke IR thermometer -- don't start the print until the bed is where I want it. Trayal, my Predator has anodized rails. I removed the pulleys, whose bearinhs needed to be soaked in penetrating oil, then spent an hour carving away mold flashing for them to move, then replaced the loose pulley nitsnuts with locknuts. Sounds like you have to have a warranty claim before then to get one if you're impacted by it. Given the painted rail issue recently reported, and my own experience with the total lack of support from Anycubic, I would avoid their printers, unless you are willing to compensate their very low price with a lot of dollars and time in upgrades, with the skills and specialized tools to do them. Thats a maybe, a question for my future self LOL. If you just want to print for days this machine is freaking awesome. Thingiverse is a universe of things. I used 2 cable ties to secure the tubing. If this thing wouldn't be that big, I'd upgrade to linear rails :-). A lot of folks (including myself) have spent a lot of time and effort understanding how to tweak the firmware on this board, which requires reverse engineering the original Chitu g-code. You judge from these pics. I went through a bit of a learning curve with the "Ultrabase Pro" printing surface, and it didn't really live up to the hype, so I print everything (PLA, ABS, PETG) on Elmers Washable School Glue, which works almost too well! I was considering buying a Pred, and already in conversation with Anycubic Cust Rel and was offered a unit that had been returned to Amazon under the guarantee that if I couldn't get it to work satisfactorily, I could return it for a full refund. My go to software is S3D. I would not wish this printer on anyone. Not so with the Predator. Support from Anycubic is atrocious, in my not so humble opinion. If Anycubic is trying to dump their inventory I'd avoid it at any cost, unless you are in the market for a mechanical framework to heavily modify. Unfortunately, I didn't get around to assembly until after the return window. How does the story end? Weeks went by. Very happy with it so far. The carbon arm issue is admittedly the only problem I've had with the unit, but if I had not been able or willing to design and build my own replacement, the Predator would have been a boat anchor while I waited for non-existant support from Anycubic. But this looks to be a step too far. Now the heat cartridge has to heat the plate too, which acts as both a heatsink, and a heat transfer bridge directly to the finned aluminum heatsink for the cold side.Why?? Well.. so this thread is still alive! We felt ready to sort out a bigger delta, since the i3 derivatives are getting elderly. Here is a youtube of it in action. 2. Printing Technology: FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) Layer Resolution: 0.1-0.4 mm Positioning Accuracy: X/Y/Z 0.01mm Supported Print Materials: PLA, ABS, HIPS, Wood Print Speed: 20~60mm/s Travel Speed: 60mm/s Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 mm Extruder Quantity: Single . However, I was eventually able to make great prints. . Thanks again, I'll test once I find the time :-). Oh yeah! If you like to tinker and modify, and appreciate a well engineered mechanical skeleton of a delta printer to use as a platform for future mods and growth, get a Predator. My heated bed was seriously warped. The wife and I would really like a larger scale printer, and delta + autoleveling seems like it'd get rid of a lot of the things we like the least on 3D printing (leveling, print speeds required to eliminate ghosting, etc). It seems the greater size could possibly magnify any wobble, I wonder about the wheels. If you're handy, consider diy, or the predator. Has anyone been able to print via USB???? If it is a sale price I was thinking about diving in... Can anyone confirm whether this is a sale price? Then push down one of the stop blocks, the linear rail, and the other stop block sequentially along with the long Al-extrusion as shown in Fig. I like the print volume and ability to print tall things without them falling over. I manufacture aerospace components, and I am very familiar with the different "grades" of anodizing. Things I've done: 1) Encase the extruder springs in soft silicone rubber tubing to suppress the mad oscillations it can get into; 2) Replaced the stock carbon rods with my own Mag Ball design (more on this later); 3) Installed TL Smoothers on all four steppers, which indeed had a subtle but noticeable and positive effect. Isn't 0.3236 a bit much for a 0.4 nozzle? In any case, I'm an old deaf man, and can easily talk on the phone while seated right next to the machine while it's printing. What I will do, is provide a brief overview of each step I carried out, in chronological order. I'll comment on the good, the bad, and the ugly as regards the Predator I have. The carbon fiber tube I used exactly fit the magnets. One of the two arms arrived. Move the effector around to verify the movement and then tighten the cable ties. Wife and I are still waffling on this, and I'd like to see quality vs my current Anycubic Mega prints. Anyway, every spool of Overture ships with a textured self-adhesive print surface that allows me to use PETG on the Pred, I just stick a sheet on the bed and use a .3 z-offset to account for the thickness of the sheet and away I go. You should be able to tell relatively easily, though. If you take into account the amount of time and parts cost involved... the printer ain't free by any means... still I think it's a handsome addition to my workspace, and it is, ATM, producing very acceptable prints. I have just run the Predator gauntlet. 1) Home brew mag ball arms (noticable but not drastic improvement), built out of frustration more than anything else, as you know. Nightmare. First thing I wanted to be able to achieve was to flip the frame so the electronics were at the top. Basically, follow the online wiki and my post on installing a duet to the predator. I then turned the printer so it was now the way up I wanted. This left me with a frame with some motors attached. I noted that they are being sold for ~$415 right now on the Anycubic web site and on AliExpress, is this a sale price or the normal price? Setting up an extruder counter-weight and replacing the springs with elastic or rubber tube mignt help, and perhaps even switching to a good old Bowden setup with Capricorn tubing could produce good prints, unless the filament is flexible. I agree that the effector design is strange, but if it seems to work for so many, I'm willing to bet some minor mods would be adequate upgrades. Install the 3 sets of mounts to the rod carriages. Remove the effector, along with the arms. I was using it to print via USB to an ANET A8 and just got the Predator as an upgrade. Silent & durable. I also installed one end of the catapult tubing to each mount. The corners weren't well made; I had to cut down the edges that were preventing the base from laying flat. I originally replaced the Pred's motion stepper motors with 84oz/in ones but swapped them back to the original items... they actually seem just fine. Did you have big salmon skin issues? The platform is closed source. The bolts that hold the vertical extrusions were too long, so I had to install washers. Atm freaking out over the non-consistent prints, extrusion probs, no way to edit the steps in the firmware, since they brew their own crap. There was a reduction, but it's just so substantially it didn't get rid of it. Thanks RQ3. From memory, mine were roughly 70mm. One of the carbon rods broke (some folks have reported that they got a few spares with their printer, but not me). Tightened the belts, added some rubber feet to the whole thing, removed the filament holder and moved it to a table besides the printer. It really is well built and very solid mechanically. If anyone wants the STLs for the extruder mount plate or the filament sensor bracket, here they are. So. The Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus is Chinese 3D printer manufacturer Anycubic’s supersized and upgraded version of its popular Kossel delta printer. I don't really know if they will change the profile/ mount, or go to Linear rails or???. This is not the quality I'm seeing. If you want to use it as a workhorse printer, day in and day out, with immediate support from the manufacturer if needed, forget about it. Anycubic's website and support sucks. Learn how your comment data is processed. Sturdy case? The tube should be long enough to reach the centre of the frame if looking from the top. Thanks for your input on this. Used to having to get the latest revision of an item in order to get the upgrade, but trying to get the 'right' earlier one? 4) A replacement PETG part cooling duct that I found here on Thingiverse, the "Bakar duct". I'm going to have to cut them to remove. Well the limitations of the controller and absence of any upgrade path of the firmware is a considerable limitation, no argument there, and let's face it. It seems that I've been very lucky! They are as follows. Did you have to do modifications to the printer itself? 1.6 layer height, both in PLA and in PETG. Made no difference in stepper noise that I could detect. Want to put a mosquito or ?? I did not like the restriction of not being able to print PETG. Sadly, I could not make it work. Perhaps that's a language barrier problem. the exrtuder begins a violent dance on the springs exerting excessive tugging on the bowden tube tethering it to the head... Not a pretty sight.